The newly-opened Merchant Steakhouse is almost empty when my dad and I go for lunch on Sunday, July 9.

The steakhouse on Ingram Street, Merchant City has only been open for two months when we visit. And while you would expect a new restaurant to be buzzing with activity, the lack of diners isn’t too alarming. After all, it’s TRNSMT weekend and it’s sunny, which means that for once there are more people on the streets of Glasgow than in food and beverage establishments.

There is also no lunch menu on Sundays. But that’s okay — I’m here for the Sunday roast.

The host escorts us past the swanky bar and a flurry of tartan armchairs, and I can see dad sizing the place up already. This doesn’t surprise me — it’s why I brought him here.

My dad, David Friel, has been a professional chef for the past 38 years and has cooked for an array of celebrities and politicians including Gordon Ramsay and Tony Blair.

I have not inherited his culinary skills. But as a lifestyle journalist who has reviewed countless restaurants and hotels through the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a good dining experience.

We are seated at a booth large enough for a group of five. The only two other diners inside the restaurant sit just a couple of tables away.

“There are more staff than there are people,” my dad comments.

Usually, dining in a vacant restaurant is my worst nightmare. I live for restaurants that are overflowing with guests, with lines stretching and spiralling out the door. These are places with an electric atmosphere, places where everyone wants to be. And while the stillness of The Merchant Steakhouse isn’t my cup of tea, it isn’t too overwhelming either. This is likely because of the upbeat music and our friendly servers, who frequently ask if we need anything.

The lunch menu is only available from Tuesday through Friday, but the à la carte menu offers a wide selection of cuts including ribeye, sirloin, and bavette as well as starters and desserts.

When it’s time to order starters, I opt for the baked goat’s cheese, which costs £8.50 and is served with Aaron oatties, pickled baby pears, pepper dulse, and pesto. Both the presentation and the taste are fantastic. The cheese perfectly compliments the pears, and the dish is light — exactly what you want from a starter.

My dad orders the oat-crusted haggis truffles, which also cost £8.50. The menu describes the truffles as being served with a turnip puree and whisky jus. However, neither he or I can taste the whisky in the jus because of the full peppercorns in the sauce, which isn’t mentioned on the menu.

Then it’s time for the main course — the reason we’re here. The Sunday Roast costs £23.95 and consists of Scotch Aberdeen Angus beef, rosemary potatoes, mashed potatoes, honey glazed carrot and parsnips, cabbage, and two Yorkshire puddings. The meal comes with a choice of beef jus or peppercorn sauce. Top tip: Follow my lead and ask your server if you can have both.

Although the beef is a tad dry, the two sauces help provide some moisture and a variety of flavor. There is so much on the plate that I can’t finish it.

Meanwhile, my dad orders a 28-day aged ribeye (£22) served with tomato and mushroom. He also has thrice cooked rooster chips (£5) and a blue cheese and horseradish sauce that our server recommended.

My dad enjoys the steak and says it was tender and cooked medium as requested. And while he says the steak tastes good, he also points out that it lacks the caramelisation, aroma, and flavour that he would usually expect from a parilla charcoal grill, which is what it is advertised as being cooked in on the menu.

All in all, he says the blue cheese and horseradish sauce was the star of the show.

Although we are both nearly stuffed, we decide we couldn’t possibly complete our review without at least sampling the dessert menu. There is a wide selection which includes sticky date pudding, berry sundae, lemon tart, pineapple carpaccio, sorbets, and peanut butter pie.

We share the sticky date pudding, which cost £8 and is served with a clotted ice cream — which is mostly melted upon its arrival. Nonetheless, the salted caramel sauce is delicious.

We leave the restaurant with our bellies full and satisfied. My personal favourite dish was the goat’s cheese. Other highlights included the great service and presentation of each dish (minus the melted ice cream).

Like any new restaurant, it seems the chefs have a couple of kinks to work out. Our main critique is that a couple of items we tried ended up tasting differently than what we had expected based on what is detailed in the menu.

But I’d still recommend visiting — even if just for the goat’s cheese.